"Innovation and sustainability are the future of wine, without losing our cultural identity"
Interview with Toni Albiol, named one of the top 10 Sommeliers in Spain
We spoke with Toni after the blind tasting he led at the ‘Dichoso mildiu’ forum, held at the Txakolí Museum: an innovative blind tasting of PIWI wines, which were compared with conventional wines to demonstrate the organoleptic potential of these new varieties of ‘super grapes’ resistant to fungi.
Toni Albiol, sommelier and technical director of DIVINS wine shop, has been working in the wine sector for almost 30 years.
A finalist in ‘La Nariz de Oro,’ he was named Best Sommelier of Catalonia in 2023, third in Spain in the same year, and Top Ten Best Sommelier of Spain in 2024
How have consumption preferences evolved and what is valued most when choosing a wine?
Consumer profiles are very varied. Some seek exceptional quality and are willing to invest in it, while others are guided by the winery’s name or the label’s appearance.
There is also a clear generational difference:Older consumers tend to value quality more and can afford to pay for it. Younger people tend to opt for more affordable and accessible wines.
A significant challenge is connecting with the new generations, who in many cases have not approached wine. The sector must work on effective strategies to motivate and educate this audience about the richness and culture of wine.
PIWI grape varieties are more sustainable, require fewer treatments, and are more environmentally friendly... Do you think this is a relevant aspect that adds to the consumer's choice?
Consumers (and not even many winemakers) are still not familiar with PIWI varieties; there is much work to be done. The journey from research to acceptance is long.
Development of the variety, bureaucracy, registrations… in addition to achieving the desired organoleptic values with these varieties. In other parts of Europe, PIWI grape wines are already being produced with some success, but for now in Spain, it is something so novel that it attracts the attention of winemakers who are very “advanced” or when required out of necessity, in areas heavily affected by fungal diseases, such as now in Bizkaiko Txakolina.
In resistant varieties, the impact of phytosanitary products is reduced, and I believe that in today’s society, these wines will have their place because we must continue advancing towards sustainability.
“It is important to convey that PIWI varieties are not a threat to traditional varieties, but a complementary solution to adapt to climatic and agronomic challenges.”
Do you find any special organoleptic traits in these varieties compared to traditional ones?
What strategies do you consider key to educating consumers about these wines?
The key lies in communication and direct experience. Organizing tastings, blind tastings, and explaining the concept behind PIWI varieties is essential: seeking plant resistance to require fewer treatments in search of a much more sustainable final product.
It is important to convey that PIWI varieties are not a threat to traditional varieties but a complementary solution to adapt to climatic and agronomic challenges.
“Wine is culture and history, but it is also innovation”
How do you imagine the future of viticulture in 20 years and the role PIWI varieties will play?
The evolution will depend on the needs of each region. With climate change, it is essential to research varieties that can withstand both the consequences of drought and diseases resulting from heavy rains. The future of viticulture involves innovation but also balance: respecting the traditional while opening doors to sustainable and effective solutions.
There is a historical cultural issue with native varieties, and in some areas, there is a fear of losing that identity.
In my view, any help that can keep the vineyard healthy, alive, and adaptable to climate changes is welcome.
We must not go crazy; we must not try to destroy what already exists. It is a complement to what does not work. Evolution involves innovation and providing new solutions.
What message would you like to convey to wine lovers about these varieties?
Wine is culture and history, but it is also innovation. We should not fear the inclusion of PIWI varieties, as long as they are regulated. In the end, the important thing is to maintain quality and offer consumers well-made wines.
The world of wine is about opening the mind, being willing to try new things… but there is a historical-cultural issue that most consumers have ingrained, and this is difficult to change. The change must be progressive and start with regulation for PIWI varieties that brings order and limits the types of varieties, but without closing the door to anything.
In short, opening doors. The future involves seeking solutions and creating culture, so that people drink wine and future generations continue to learn about wine culture and consume it responsibly.
